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集思广益来种菜 ~*~ 梅朵家的菜园子 ~*~ 大肚子暂停更新

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91#
发表于 30-6-2011 11:22:15 | 只看该作者

回复 #90 格桑梅朵 的帖子

可以。。。

你点那一楼的“引用”。。。然后新的编辑页面里就有这楼的超链接
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92#
发表于 30-6-2011 11:22:34 | 只看该作者
原帖由 格桑梅朵 于 30-6-2011 10:15 发表
这里来说说肥料。

有机肥当然是首选,Bunnings有卖牛的,鸡的,羊的。
鸡粪含磷钾突出.适合花芽分化时期,当然也不是说其他时期使用就没效果,而是来比较三者的突出区别.牛粪属于冷性肥料,一般不会出现烧根的情况. ...


今早在前院儿把agapanthus都挖了。把土全番了两遍,第二遍的时候用了四袋鸡肥,整整用了我两个小时。
两周后,前院种菜!

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参与人数 3威望 +60 收起 理由
依然逍遥 + 20 好期待你开墨尔本贴!
yearshappy + 20 哈哈
格桑梅朵 + 20 呵呵,以后你都可以卖菜了!

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93#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 11:26:05 | 只看该作者

回复 #91 MillerYang 的帖子

我试试看
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94#
发表于 30-6-2011 12:17:11 | 只看该作者

回复 #92 Greenhouse 的帖子

芦笋好吃啊,不是说可以长很久的吗,为什么要挖掉呢?

看错了,看成Asparagus啦。


[ 本帖最后由 sunnyclh1211 于 30-6-2011 12:20 编辑 ]

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参与人数 1威望 +20 收起 理由
Greenhouse + 20 呵呵,不过我要种几棵Asparagus 在前面。

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95#
发表于 30-6-2011 12:48:30 | 只看该作者
好贴要顶!
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96#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 13:18:48 | 只看该作者
防虫篇 资料V
上面罗列了很多无公害方法灭虫的方法,其实原理总结下来也就是:
- 气味驱赶法,一些植物天然的气味或者等分泌出一些挥发性的物质能让某些害虫畏而远之,比如大蒜,烟草等等
- 发热法灭虫,辣椒水,酒精类,盐水等喷到害虫身上,会使害虫自身发热受伤致死。
- 油法灭虫 ,矿物油,植物油会使一些软体类害虫窒息死亡。
- 皂法灭虫, 洗涤剂或其他皂类产品的稀释液也可以使一些害虫粘住无法动弹等死。

我现在还没有能力总结出什么害虫该用什么方法,但手上倒是有一份这样的资料供大家参考,感兴趣的话就慢慢读吧
http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com/organic-garden-pest-control.html

A-Z of Garden Pests

Ants: Studying ants is a lesson in survival. If ants encounter a substance that kills them or forms a barrier, they set to work and pile up enough of each other, dead or alive, to make a bridge to cross.
There are over 14,000 ant species worldwide. Some are useful as biological control in farming, many have painful bites and some eat crops. Controlling ants in the garden is the focus here, so whether you have brown coastal ants, bull ants or tiny black ants, most of them continually scout around searching for food and if you see one, it's probably left a scent trail and in a flash the rest of the team will be on their way.
In your vegetable garden ants 'farm' aphids, even moving aphids to put them on better plants. The ants collect the sweet honeydew that aphids secrete after sucking plant sap. Mealy bugs and scale are other soft-bodied insects that secrete honeydew which ants collect. The ants make tunnels and nests in your soil and undermine roots and really roughshod it over everything in your garden if they get out of hand.
You have to be crafty to totally get rid of ants. Some instant ant ammunition...
Borax can be used as a natural insecticide, although must be kept away from children, pets and protect yourself too. Watch your eyes, nose, use gloves and wash hands afterwards. Borax mixed with peanut butter or something sweet, such as honey, means the ants eat it and take it back to their nest to share with other ants, hopefully poisoning all in the nest.
Diatomaceous earth sprinkled on ants' trails kills ants by dehydration when they're back in their nest.
Garlic fire spray will kill ants on contact... but there's plenty more on their way!
There are lots of organic garden pest control deterrent for ants, but keep applying and changing them because they are determined little blighters indeed. When ants are under attack, some ants will gather a few eggs and move to another location, so often all you achieve is for them to move their nest somewhere else, in which case unless they become a pest again, leave them in peace.
Some more ant strategies...
Dab some jam, honey or sugar water (and borax if you wish) on the base of aphid infested plants. That will hold the ants back whilst you set some ladybugs on the aphids. You can spray the aphids and ants, but the ants will have a store of eggs underground and will soon move back to start farming again.
Cucumber peels on ant routes will send them away for a while.
If you find the ants' nest, make them disappear by sprinkling in or near their entrance one or more of these: black pepper, cayenne pepper, cinnamon or chilli powder. Likewise salt sends them into a frenzy.
Boiling water can then be poured on as many ants as you can reach (as long as it's safe and away from plants). Boiling water can of course be poured down an ant nest to kill the queen — if you are lucky enough to find an easy to reach nest, but usually they are very deep and constructed to stop rain and flooded water going in.

Aphids: Rhubarb leaves are semi-poisonous to us, and a tea brewed from rhubarb leaves poisons smaller critters, such as aphids, mites, white fly, caterpillars etc. Pour boiling water over crushed rhubarb leaves then leave to soak for several days. Strain, add a good squirt of detergent and dilute enough so that it looks like weak tea and spray over pest infested plants. Repeat every 10 days or so.
Also try the garlic/chilli sprays above.


Caterpillars: To discourage moths and grubs on corn, fruit, brassicas (includes broccoli, spinach, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kale, collard greens, pak choi and kohlrabi) simply spray with a molasses blend. Mix one tablespoon of molasses with a litre of hot water. Then add a teaspoon of liquid detergent and put in a spray bottle. Spray the leaves, top and bottom, about once a week.

An alternative to the molasses spray is a blend of 1 part vinegar to 3 parts water. Add a teaspoon of liquid detergent and put in a spray bottle. Spray the leaves, top and bottom to kill off grubs and bugs.
Also see Garlic fire spray at the top and Rhubarb spray under Aphids.

Earwigs: Eeeewahh... If earwigs are eating your plants, crumple some newspaper in old flower pots and leave them in the garden. The earwigs will hide in the paper once they're done eating. In the morning, shake the paper out where they can have a new home or into a bucket of hot water if earwigs aren't your cup of tea.

Fleas: There are whole websites devoted to killing fleas in the home, so here we'll just deal with fleas in the garden.
To deter fleas outside use diatomaceous earth and sprinkle it on your shoes and socks as you step into the garden. This way those fleabags won't hitch a ride back inside with you. DE consists of vast amounts of microscopic fossilized, broken down diatoms. It looks like flour and is harmless to animals and humans. It kills small insects and bugs by cutting into their surface, thus causing dehydration. It's often used in grain silos so is available in farmers' stores as well as some health outlets.
It's ok for you and pets to ingest diatomaceous earth as it kills parasites, but it is a very fine powder so avoid breathing it in.
Pennyroyal (sometimes called stinking roger) grown near the door and in the garden gets rid of fleas. There are pennyroyal pet soaps and washes that are sold to protect pets from fleas.

Gophers: Here's a few tricks to try to deter gophers:
* Encourage birds of prey by putting water bird baths in garden and keeping foliage around the garden edge down so the birds can spot any such rodents.
* Lay mesh around your garden edge at least 45cm (18") deep. Some gardeners even lay it on the bottom of a garden bed.
* Have some pets, such as a dog or even a cat, and make sure they are out and about during dawn and dusk at the same time as gophers get active. Gophers and other burrowing creatures will avoid trespassing where there are family pets in sight.
* Spraying with Garlic fire works but depending on garden size it may be too big a task and too expensive to make enough and keep using it.
* If you already have a few gopher holes, put the hose down them and flood their tunnels.

Mealy bugs: Treat these soft pale pink, white or gray sucking insects the same way as scale. Indoor plants are susceptible to mealy bugs because of the sheltered environment, so in your garden mealy bugs love glass houses and plants growing near or under weather protection.
Mealy bugs multiply rapidly and will soon sap the life of a plant, causing distortion and stunted growth first. They are easy to squish with fingers or dab with a cotton bud dipped in methylated spirits. They have a slight waxy coating so anything that burns this off, such as meths, causes death by dehydration. Smothering with oil is also effective.

Mice: If they get into your home from the garden, smarten up your housekeeping to the point of being fanatical. Don't leave food out, put stored food in containers and empty the crumb tray of your toaster.
Deter mice with peppermint or eucalyptus oil – soak cloths or cottonwool and put where mice come in or have been. They tend to go around edges and under appliances, so concentrate your efforts there and if you have to lay traps, bait them with peanut butter, cheese, stiff porridge or bread.

Mildew, mould and fungus: Plants that are susceptible to mildew, such as peas, pumpkin, zucchini and cucumber can benefit from a milk spray. Use full-cream milk and spray every few days on the leaves until the mildew is under control.
If the small white patches of mildew are just starting, you should be able to catch it early and stop further spreading by using a diluted milk solution of equal parts water and milk.
If the situation is out of control, either remove the affected leaves or the whole plant and destroy it.
" Damping off" is caused by fungi such as Phtophtora and Pythium. Seedlings, like lettuce, suddenly collapse with the rot. Soggy conditions, overcrowding or too much peat in the mix can be the cause. Try letting the soil dry out on the surface in-between waterings, and even sprinkling a layer of sand on the surface.
Sand and a dry surface will also control "Fungus gnats." They are tiny little black midget type flies that crawl and fly around the surface of the soil. They lay their eggs and the larvae will damage seedling by eating their roots.
Chamomile tea is a fungicide. Prepare a cup of chamomile tea and allow it to steep for 10 minutes. Once cool it can be sprayed on the affected leaves, top and bottom.
Cinnamon powder sprinkled around plants and soil also controls fungus.
If you can make or buy good quality Compost tea, this is extremely beneficial. Compost tea balances the microbes and bacteria in the soil, thus fighting the disease organisms and providing active healthy organisms and fertiliser to strengthen plants and make them resistant to problems.

Moles: See Voles and Gophers. Moles eat insects and worms; they don't harm plants except by their earthworks.

Opossums: Opossum deterrents are many, with only anecdotal evidence that some work. Reliable tests do give credit to camphor to repel opossums. Mix natural camphor flakes or oil to a paste with something like Vaseline and rub around tree trunks, or put camphor in stocking leg or net bag and hang from a branch.
If opossums just love your garden and fruit and veggies, it may be worth your while to fence them out. Use floppy but strong chicken netting just under 90cm (3ft) high supported on lengths of fencing wire that are curved outward at the top so those cheeky possums just get swung around when then try to climb up. Bury the netting 20cm (8") in the ground.
For fruit trees put a smooth, wide metal collar around the trunk to stop them climbing up.
Keeping chickens nearby may also deter opossums.

Scale: It can be a shock to peer at a plant and realise that it's covered in black, brown or green scale. More of a shock will be when in a short while your plant starts turning up its toes in a stunted sort of way, so tackle scale as soon as you find it. Scale gathers on leaves and stems, sucking the life out of plants.
A black fungus called sooty mould grows on the sweet honeydew secretions from scale. This does the plants no good and looks awful. Ants also love scale honeydew and will aggressively farm scale to obtain as much as they can.
The odd scale can be scraped off with your nail, blunt knife or toothbrush. Always check a week or so later for any new ones.
Garlic fire spray also works, because it kills the crawling nymphs as well as smothering the waxy coated adults which permanently attach themselves to the plant.
Also mix 1/4 teaspoon of oil, 2 tablespoons baking soda and 1 tablespoon mild liquid soap in two gallons of water. Spray or wipe on plants once a week for 3 weeks or until gone.

Slugs: Do a night patrol as for snails. The best time is dusk especially when it's damp or raining. Don't use your hand to pick them up — it's horrendous trying to get that sticky stuff off. Scoop them up with an old spoon, dump them in a bucket and scrape them out somewhere where they won't be a pest.
If there's nowhere else for them but kapow... give them a quick stamp with your shoe, or salt sprinkled on snails and slugs will kill them instantly. Go out in the evening with a flashlight and protect your plants!
Sprinkle crushed egg shells around vulnerable plants. Slugs and snails will avoid crossing the sharp shells and it will enrich your soil with calcium. Children like to help here, they love crushing eggshells. Keep them in a jar until you have enough to use.
Another dislike of snails is sand, which they do not like to cross. Put a band of fine sand about 1cm (1/4") high around the garden edge or base of plants.
Sprays like Garlic fire don't work with slugs and snails — they are mollusks, not insects

Snails: As for slugs mostly. Also put beer in a shallow pan in the garden to trap snails and slugs overnight. Vinegar in a shallow pan will do the same thing.
Orange or grapefruit halves hollowed and turned upside down placed around the garden will also attract snails and slugs. Go out in the morning to remove or deliver the coup de grace on those hiding under the peel.

Spider mites: There are unknown millions of mite species, many similar to thrips. In the garden the two-spotted mite is commonly called red spider mite because in the cold weather it changes from pale green with two red spots to orange/red, looking like a miniature red spider.
Like thrips, spider mites suck the chlorophyll from the leaves of plants. Spider mites leave white translucent spots of damage and no dark droppings. In heavier infestations a silky web is obvious, which is secreted by the mites to protect themselves from enemies and poisons. These webs can cover a whole plant.
Natural predatory mites are the best control, so having compost and mulch to encourage beneficial mites will keep the right balance. Spiders, parasitic wasps, lady bugs and lacewings also feed on red spider mites.
Use a soap spray to eradicate these critters. Spray plants weekly until mites are gone, then monthly to stop them from returning. Also see other sprays under Caterpillars.

Thrips: There is no singular word for thrips — such as a thrip. And look at one of their names Heliothrips haemorrhoidalis! So these horribly named beasties come by the gangload.
Microscopic greenhouse thrips rasp away on the surface cells of leaves and suck out their chlorophyll contents. The hollowed, air-filled cells then take on a silvery, tissue paper look. This later turns brownish and crinkly and there are dark spots of thrips droppings seen.
Some thrips also spread viruses, such as the tomato spotted wilt virus. Not nice.
Keep weeds down if troubled with thrips, as thrips overwinter in nearby ground foliage waiting for their favourite plants the next season.
Garlic fire spray trips thrips up and there are a number of predatory bugs native to different countries. Lacewing larvae are a good biological control also. See Beneficial Garden insects and creatures.

Voles: (Also see Gophers) Unlike Moles, Voles only eat roots and bark rather than insects and worms. Electronic gadgets were popular once for organic garden pest control, but apparently have little success on Voles, so you might have to resort to mouse traps if you're desperate. Bait traps with bread or stiff porridge, then lay the traps on the vole trails, cover each trap with a box with a hole (to stop birds and possibly other animals, and kids) and keep checking and moving and replacing until you win!

Whitefly: Windy conditions keep whitefly away temporarily, and also a strongish hose down will move them on. Detergent or oil coats their wings and stops them flying, so mix up approximately 1-2 teaspoons detergent to 1 litre (15oz) water, or half a cup of cheap salad oil to 1 litre water, with a dash of detergent. Spray all over infected plants, including underside of leaves if possible.
Whitefly are attracted to yellow. Get some sticky stuff, such as vaseline, castor oil, natural gum resin, or vegetable wax. Tie bright yellow plastic bag bits coated with sticky stuff to stakes, or smear a yellow plastic bucket, or paint a nearby board the brightest yellow you can buy.
If necessary shake the whitefly off the plants then watch as they land on the yellow traps and get stuck.


See how simple organic garden pest control is?

You're the owner of those veggies doggone it, not those garden pests. So mix up a batch of whatever you need now and may the luck be with you.
Even with natural ingredients, don't get sprays in your eyes, or even touch your eyes with your hands after mixing up concoctions. Label sprays well and keep out of reach of children.
Always remember your community spirit towards those that co-share your garden and surrounds. Sometimes you may have to learn to live with a little wastage for you and the planet to stay healthy.

[ 本帖最后由 格桑梅朵 于 30-6-2011 13:20 编辑 ]

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参与人数 1威望 +20 收起 理由
Greenhouse + 20 谢谢分享!这个很有用,我现在就有white fl ...

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97#
发表于 30-6-2011 13:31:47 | 只看该作者
好帖留名,谢谢楼主分享
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98#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 13:43:57 | 只看该作者
防虫灭虫总是最让我头疼的事情,上面列举的方法也试过很多,会有一些成效,但从来没有什么方法是万能的。如果忍无可忍的时候,有时候害虫实在猖獗的时候,我也会洒些农药,否则眼看着就全喂了虫。

勉强还可以忍受的时候,我就这么做:
1 Give your plants a good spraying the day before applying pesticide to remove excess pests.
2 Mix in a bucket 1 gallon of water, 2 tbsp. of vegetable cooking oil, and 2 tbsp. of a de-greasing dishwashing liquid.
3 Pour the mixture into a water bottle and save the rest in a sealable container.
4 Dry off any wet leaves of the plant with a towel. Spray the mixture, so that it covers the crown of the plant down to 3 inches from the ground.
5 Lift the leaves of the plant and spray underneath.
6 Repeat the natural insect killer application every week.

有时候我会在溶液里加辣椒粉,或者就直接喷辣椒水!
害虫不猖獗的时候这样做会有些用的,但必须每周都喷,稍不留神又卷土重来了。

但要记住了,千万不要在大太阳底下喷洒,否则太热菜叶自己也烧坏了,建议傍晚时候;也不要下雨前或下完雨马上喷,都流走了。

[ 本帖最后由 格桑梅朵 于 30-6-2011 13:51 编辑 ]

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参与人数 1威望 +20 收起 理由
MillerYang + 20 谢谢分享!

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99#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 14:13:42 | 只看该作者
一些小常识:
在种植过程中还有些小常识可以帮助蔬菜长得更好。比如说连作和轮作。
简单的说,连作就是在一块地上连着种某种蔬菜;轮作就是一块地上轮流种植不同的蔬菜。
一些蔬菜是不好连作的,他们的根部会分泌一些毒性物质,累积会产生自毒作用,如茄子和芹菜,有时候连作还会是某种病虫害加剧,或者土壤中这种植物所需的养分已经被上一茬吸收光了。
而巧妙的轮作不但可以避开上边的缺点,还可以使某些“毒性物质”变成另外一些蔬菜的营养成分。

可以连作:小白菜、萵苣、茼蒿、葱、胡萝卜、菠菜、韭菜
不宜连作:茄子、番茄、马铃薯、青椒、碗豆、四季豆、萝卜、胡瓜、扁蒲、丝瓜
轮作:萝卜 ----->   茄子
      胡瓜-----> 葱-----> 扁豆
      茄子-----> 萝卜-----> 菠菜
      甘蓝-----> 甜菜-----> 莴苣-----> 萝卜

[ 本帖最后由 格桑梅朵 于 16-8-2011 12:29 编辑 ]

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参与人数 2威望 +40 收起 理由
MillerYang + 20 谢谢分享!
yearshappy + 20 你太有才了!

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100#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 14:29:03 | 只看该作者
菠菜

在绿叶蔬菜中,菠菜也是一种耐寒力较强的。
菠菜种子发芽的最低温度为4℃,最适温度为15~20℃。在适温下4天发芽,质量高的种子,发芽率达90%以上温度再升高,发芽率降低,发芽天数增多;35℃时,发芽率不到20%。所以高温季节播种时,种子必须事先放在冷凉环境中浸种催芽。

菠菜的食用部分为柔嫩多汁的叶片,种植过程水分的消耗量大,所以对水分的要求比较高。在空气相对湿度为80%~90%、土壤含水量为18%~20%的环境中,叶部生长旺盛,品质柔嫩。空气和土壤干燥使叶部生长缓慢,组织老化,纤维增多,品质下降。特别是温度高、日照时间长的季节,缺水使营养器官发育不良,但花薹的发育占优势,从而加速了抽薹,而且雄株数目超过雌株,对菠菜采种也造成不利影响。

土壤菠菜要求微酸性至中性的土壤。在酸性土壤中,生长缓慢,严重时叶色变黄,叶片变硬,无光泽,不伸展。所以,土壤酸性太大的土壤应施用石灰或草木灰,使酸性降低。

为保证菠菜的正常生长,需要施用氮、磷、钾三要素俱全的肥料。在此基础上,要特别重视氮肥的施用。氮肥充足时,叶部生长旺盛,不仅可以提高产量,增进品质,而且可以延长供应期。缺氮时,植株矮小,叶色发黄,叶片小而薄,纤维多,而且容易早抽薹。

[ 本帖最后由 格桑梅朵 于 30-6-2011 14:30 编辑 ]

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参与人数 2威望 +40 收起 理由
yearshappy + 20 我种的品种是 English Spinach, 片叶很厚实 ...
MillerYang + 20 谢谢分享!

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101#
发表于 30-6-2011 14:35:32 | 只看该作者
原帖由 格桑梅朵 于 30-6-2011 14:13 发表
一些小常识:
在种植过程中还有些小常识可以帮助蔬菜长得更好。比如说连作和轮作。
简单的说,连作就是在一块地上连着种某种蔬菜;轮作就是一块地上轮流种植不同的蔬菜。
一些蔬菜是不好连作的,他们的根部会分泌 ...



补充些轮作图表:
如果你有4小片地,每一年第一个往下轮着种植,四年轮一回。
Bed 1, 种植一些根部果实的植物,如,胡萝卜,白萝卜,beetroot(芥菜??) ,洋葱,大蒜,leeks;
Bed 2, 玉米,南瓜,squash, 黄瓜,西瓜等, 这些秋后收获后,可迅速种植一些green manure,为下一季节作准备
Bed 3, 西红柿,大辣椒,小辣椒,茄子等
Bed 4, 各种豌豆,豆角,白绿菜花,包菜,大白菜,broccoli, pak choy 等

5年轮作
Bed 1 Onions, garlic and leeks followed by...
Bed 2 Legumes and brassicas followed by...
Bed 3 Root crops followed by...
Bed 4 Curcurbits and sweet corn followed by...
Bed 5 Tomato, capsicums and eggplants....

6 year rotation
Bed 1 Onions, garlic and leeks followed by...
Bed 2 Legumes followed by...
Bed 3 Brassicas followed by...
Bed 4 Root crops followed by...
Bed 5 Curcurbits and sweet corn followed by...
Bed 6 Tomato, capsicums and eggplants....

土豆可另找地方或者与西红柿一起套植, 一些萨拉的小菜,可在任何地方任何时间播种

[ 本帖最后由 yearshappy 于 30-6-2011 15:07 编辑 ]

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格桑梅朵 + 20 谢谢分享!

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102#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 15:05:16 | 只看该作者

回复 #101 yearshappy 的帖子

beetroot 我也不知道具体是什么菜,但应该不是芥菜。好像是一种甜菜?我看超市里卖的beetroot很像我妈妈以前种的“牛皮菜”,但不确定是不是。
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103#
发表于 30-6-2011 15:05:55 | 只看该作者
原帖由 格桑梅朵 于 29-6-2011 13:43 发表
蒜苗/蒜苔

蒜苗不耐热,适宜大蒜叶片生长的温度为12-20℃,温度过高,生长受抑制。所以很适合秋冬季节栽种。
大蒜好像一般不结种子,只能以蒜瓣进行无性繁殖。
翻好地,施好基肥后,把蒜瓣插到土里就好了,但方 ...



再学习一遍大蒜 , 一定会有蒜薹吗? 我的一个也没有出现呢,
其实我只关心最后大蒜头能否有。
我拨出来几个,已经有两个月了,目前是独头非常小。 看一些当地人论坛,有家种出来的全部变成独头的了, ,据说有可能是肥料上多了。 我不想要独头的,我要成掰的,要编成辫子挂院子里的,等呀,等呀,等呀

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格桑梅朵 + 20 你也种了很多菜,多多分享经验哦!

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104#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 15:14:53 | 只看该作者

回复 #103 yearshappy 的帖子

会的!
施肥很关键,太多太少都不好,呵呵,慢慢积累经验。
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105#
发表于 30-6-2011 15:27:42 | 只看该作者
原帖由 格桑梅朵 于 30-6-2011 13:43 发表
防虫灭虫总是最让我头疼的事情,上面列举的方法也试过很多,会有一些成效,但从来没有什么方法是万能的。如果忍无可忍的时候,有时候害虫实在猖獗的时候,我也会洒些农药,否则眼看着就全喂了虫。

勉强还可以忍受 ...

不知用防虫罩效果怎么样?

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依然逍遥 + 20 我也在考虑防虫罩,应该一劳永逸吧?

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106#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 15:29:16 | 只看该作者
芋头

芋头是个好东西,呵呵。好吃,直接煮了吃,或是做菜,尤其是和肉一起做,很美味的!我最喜欢的一道芋头做的菜就是“梅菜芋头扣肉”,超好吃!是我的招牌菜哈!
芋头的植株还挺好看,植株高约1米左右,叶片盾形,叶柄长而肥大,绿色或紫红色,非常适合种在院子的边边角角处,不占菜地。甚至还可以种在花盆里,装饰房间。芋头的护理很方便,只要是但施肥浇水得当,病虫害也少,很适合甩手掌柜的干活。
芋头有很多品种,红芋、白芋、九头芋、槟榔芋。其中槟榔芋是芋头中的上品,个头最大,通常说的香芋就是槟榔芋。
红芋的也柄是紫色的,白芋和九头芋是绿色的,槟榔芋的叶柄从下至上由绿逐渐过渡为咖啡红,直至叶芯。
我家的芋头是紫色叶柄的,月初的时候挖了吃了,没有现成的照片,就在网上找了两张贴过来,说明一下紫色叶柄和绿色叶柄的芋头植株是啥样的。
绿色叶柄的

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参与人数 3威望 +60 收起 理由
依然逍遥 + 20 哇,这个也能种。
binnie + 20 谢谢分享!
yearshappy + 20 特喜欢这个叶子

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107#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 15:30:12 | 只看该作者
原帖由 Ozlet 于 30-6-2011 15:27 发表

不知用防虫罩效果怎么样?


那当然好了,但不是很方便。而且造价不菲。
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108#
发表于 30-6-2011 15:37:48 | 只看该作者
强啊,可以出书了

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格桑梅朵 + 20 呵呵,不是原创的,很多都是收集的资料,然 ...

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109#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 15:41:56 | 只看该作者

回复 #108 mason00 的帖子

呵呵,谢谢夸奖了
不是原创的,兴趣所致,收集了很多资料,然后根据自己的经验和实践整理出来,如果能帮到大家就很高兴了。

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MillerYang + 20 绝对大有帮助

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110#
发表于 30-6-2011 15:45:43 | 只看该作者
原帖由 格桑梅朵 于 30-6-2011 15:30 发表


那当然好了,但不是很方便。而且造价不菲。


连 mulch 我都觉得上肥时不方便




特喜欢芋头的叶子
西人店里那种比大地瓜还大的特大芋头,也可买回来种吗?

看看我这两个还可能出芽不? 人家给我的,我也不知道哪个是顶,哪个是末

[ 本帖最后由 yearshappy 于 30-6-2011 15:50 编辑 ]

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111#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 16:05:27 | 只看该作者
原帖由 yearshappy 于 30-6-2011 15:45 发表


连 mulch 我都觉得上肥时不方便




特喜欢芋头的叶子
西人店里那种比大地瓜还大的特大芋头,也可买回来种吗?

看看我这两个还可能出芽不? 人家给我的,我也不知道哪个是顶,哪个是末


那种特别大的芋头应该是母芋,买回来种,太浪费了。
芋头中,直接长在植株下的球茎是最大的,那就是母芋,其他的球茎有的直接连着母芋,有的是长在旁边的须根上。
等来年你自己挖芋头时,留下母芋上挂着的长得好的小芋头,做种芋。

芋头一般长得不是很对称,总会找到一头大些,一头小些,那头大一些的就是顶。
如果实在不确定的话,也没关系。在种前15―20天先晒1-2天,然后将种芋头放在潮湿的地方,温度20℃左右,15~20天厚,芋头就会发芽了,然后再种到地里。

[ 本帖最后由 格桑梅朵 于 30-6-2011 16:14 编辑 ]

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yearshappy + 20 那我就耐心等:)
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112#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 16:07:41 | 只看该作者
好想念家乡的槟榔芋。那时候,家里的菜园子,周围一圈槟榔芋,很是好看。
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113#
发表于 30-6-2011 16:11:58 | 只看该作者
题外话。。。请问各位高人

香芋蛋糕或者面包里的香芋是你们说的芋头不?
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114#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 16:19:22 | 只看该作者

回复 #113 MillerYang 的帖子

这个就不大清楚了,很可能只是香芋香精而已。
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115#
发表于 30-6-2011 16:49:34 | 只看该作者
我回来啦,今天又看到不少新东西啊。。。。
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116#
 楼主| 发表于 30-6-2011 17:16:41 | 只看该作者
木耳菜 & 空心菜

木耳菜

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参与人数 3威望 +50 收起 理由
zlsiva + 10 可以先把茎插在水里,出根了种土里
yearshappy + 20 我插枝了几个空心菜,冬季长得好慢
Greenhouse + 20 谢谢分享!非常实用

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117#
发表于 30-6-2011 19:46:31 | 只看该作者

回复 #116 格桑梅朵 的帖子

水培空心菜应该用什吗样的营养液呢?
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118#
发表于 30-6-2011 19:54:56 | 只看该作者
我听出来了,你们个个都生怀绝技

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119#
发表于 30-6-2011 20:22:53 | 只看该作者

谢谢格桑梅朵、Greenhouse

非常感谢二位的辛勤劳动,使我们受益匪浅,了解了很多新的种菜知识。比如,再过几天我就要收获我种的茼蒿了,本以为从土里面拔出来就好了,看了‘格桑梅朵 ’写的茼蒿那一节,才知道这东西原来是可以多次收获的,差一点就浪费了那么多辛苦劳动的果实。还有我种了蚕豆,为了能长得更好,我多次加了鸭粪和牛粪但是没有看到很大的变化,这次才知道原来它们“粪类肥料是不需要的”。真的很感谢你们,感谢FreeOZ论坛《我爱我家》。

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参与人数 2威望 +40 收起 理由
MillerYang + 20 我很赞同!也欢迎你来分享
格桑梅朵 + 20 谢谢支持!很高兴能帮上忙!

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120#
 楼主| 发表于 1-7-2011 09:03:18 | 只看该作者
原帖由 dqj34 于 30-6-2011 19:46 发表
水培空心菜应该用什吗样的营养液呢?


这个具体我不清楚的,我家的是载在地里的,没有水培过,但我看到网上有那么做的,就直接贴过来了。
我在bunnings看到过有卖营养液的,你不妨到哪里找找看。
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